2008 Kendall-Jackson Monterey County Riesling Vintner’s Reserve
California State Fair Double Gold winner – Best of California Riesling! 98 Points. One of the few winners that is still available to buy.

Tasting Notes:
Aromas of honeydew and peach with hints of citrus and apple. Flavors of apricot, pear and orange blossoms with hints of pineapple. Full bodied and balanced with an off-dry, crisp finish.

Great to sip or serve with chicken in a white wine sauce with noodles and mushrooms. Found it at BevMo for $10.

White Wines That Are Better with Age
Usually when we think of wines that age well we most often think of cabernet sauvignon, Barolo, Brunello di Montelcino and fortified wines like Port and Madeira. But, there are white wines that are better with age.

Red or white, there are certain conditions that allow some wines to age well. Location, vintage – ideal weather conditions, fermentation process and even certain yeast used in fermentation.

Red wines get their tannins from contact with the skin and stems. High tannins allow for greater aging capacity. White wine, which normally don’t have tannins because they rarely have contact with the skin, need to be higher in sugar and acid to age well.

So which whites age the best?

German Rieslings, because they are high in sugar and acid, will age as well as a cabernet.

Burgundy-style Chardonnays because they have good acidity and minerality, Most California Chardonnays are low in acid. The lack of acid makes the wine rich and buttery but it won’t age well.

Sauternes and late harvest wines can take years to come to full maturity because of the high sugar levels and botrytised fruit.

Chablis age well because of the acidity.

A couple of examples of well-aged whites that we’ve tried:

Michaud Vineyard Chelone Appellation Chardonnay 2002
Michael Michaud’s vineyard in Monterey is considered a California Grand Cru vineyard. Former winemaker at Chalone, Michaud started his own winery in 1998.

Gold straw color.Aromas of peach and apple with a hint of vanilla and butterscotch. Flavors of pear and lemoncella with nice minerallity. Balanced and well structured with a long smooth finish. As it sits in the glass, aromas and flavors continue to surprise and delight. Drink now. At Wine Exchange $20

ZD 2006 Reserve Chardonnay Napa Valley
This is the one with the black label. Gold color. Aromas of pineapple, pear and orange blossom with a hint of white flowers. Flavors of lemon, pear with a hint of vanilla and oak. Full bodied, balanced with a long, rich finish. I love this wine. Will cellar well for 8 to 10 years. The extended barrel aging -15 months contributes to the longevity of this wine. Multiple gold and double gold medal winner. 90 points from Wine Spectator. $45 dollars at K&L.

EOS Estate Winery
One of the largest wineries in Paso Robles, EOS Estate Winery, has been placed in receivership because of financial problems.

The winery, which was founded by the Arciero family in 1985, was sold in 2007, for $20 million to Sapphire Wines – a Tennessee-based firm owned and controlled by Jeffrey Hopmayer.

In 2009, Hopmayer  also bought two other California labels, Carneros Creek of Napa and Wildhurst of Lake County. In October, 2009 he sold the three wineries to a company owned by Entertainment Property Trust – a publicly traded (EPR) company that also owns megaplex theaters, entertainment retail centers, public charter schools, ski parks and other well known wineries.

According to an article in the San Luis Obispo Tribune, from the time Hopmayer bought EOS, the company steadily racked up debt. It owes an estimated $16.5 million to lenders, including a $7.5 million loan from Farm Credit West and $8 million owed to Entertainment Properties Trust. The winery also owes $2 million to $3 million to growers and $1.2 million in rent not paid since August 2009, according to court filings.

Farm Credit West’s lawsuit also said periodic site inspections have shown as much as $1 million missing from the winery’s books, either because the winery had not been paid or the money had been transferred improperly to Sapphire Advisors, which handles the bookkeeping for EOS.

If the receiver had not been put in place, EOS Estates Winery’s current inventory of about 80,000 cases of wine could possibly have been exhausted in four months, several million dollars more could have been “diverted,” and the winery would have been forced out of business. The next hearing date is set for May 27.

Eos Estate 2006 Zinfandel Port
We like this Paso Robles wine – a lot. If you are too full after a meal but still crave a little dessert, there is nothing like a small glass of port with a piece of chocolate. Mmmm. Good Zinfandel ports that are affordable aren’t easy to find.

From November 28 Twisting Vines:

EOS 2006 Zinfandel Port
Intense aromas of prunes, molasses, roasted walnuts and maple syrup fill the nose. Nutty charactersglide across the palate with essence of plums and espresso. Spiciness of dry earth, cedar, and cinnamon linger on the palate for an extended finish. serve with chocolates cake or sip it by itself by the fireplace. Will age nicely for 15 years. Excellent wine for this price point. Widely available for under $24

2007 Wine
One of the best vintage years for wine – worldwide, was 2007. These wines are now coming to market and with wine prices dropping, there are bargains to be had!

California reds have been slow to come down, but winemakers will have to start discounting in order to reduce inventory. Buyers that once spent $20 – $30 are now buying the $9 – $12 bottles. The $10 – $14 buyer is now in the $3 – $6 dollar category. This is quite a shift to a much lower price point.

In restaurants, we’ve started to see some of the higher end wines being sold by the glass. This is a great opportunity to sample better wines without having to buy the whole bottle.

Some of the best buys recently have been Zinfandel and Syrah from California, Malbecs from Argentina and French Rhône wines.

Time to Stock Up on Champagne
According to the New York Times wine critic, Eric Asimov, there are now some pretty good Champagnes in the $30 to $40 range. A panel of experts, including Asimov, set up blind tasting of 20 Champagnes under $40 and found some seriously good wine. This is quite a change from last year.

What has changed? As James Carville said back in 1992, “It’s the economy, stupid.”

When the bottom fell out of the economy, it took the wine industry with it. In 2007 shipments of Champagne were at close to 22 million bottles. In 2008 they fell to 17 million bottles. This year, as previously noted here at Twisting Vines, Champagne shipments dropped more than 41%.

“I think a lot of the importers got very nervous and this fall lowered prices for the big houses, especially in November and December,” said Lorena Ascencios, wine buyer for Astor Wines and Spirits in Greenwich Village.

Asimov said he was the most excited by the smaller producers who make Champagne from grapes they grow themselves. 4 of the top 10 were selections were from small producers.

The Winners:
The Falmet Brut Tradition
The top-rated wine in the tasting. “We found it full of lively energy, with complex flavors of flowers, minerals, citrus and herbs, and with more finesse than you generally find in Champagnes dominated by the pinot noir grape.” $30

Brut Tradition from Christian Etienne
No. 5 bottle in the tasting, was rich, round and full of fruit, yet beautifully balanced. $30

NV Grande Cuvée from Moutard
No. 8 Champagne showed its 100 percent pinot noir character in its rich, full-bodied texture and ripe fruit flavors. $30

Les 7 Crus from Agrapart & Fils
Rated best value was  another grower-producer. Agrapart is in the Côte des Blancs, which is chardonnay country, so naturally this was a blanc de blancs, made entirely out of chardonnay. It is fresh and balanced, with just the sort of finesse you would expect to see in a good blanc de blancs. A great deal at $28.

From Asimov: “Personally, I love the individuality and distinctiveness I find in many grower-producer Champagnes. But I recognize that unless you live near a wine shop with a deep Champagne selection, or have access to one through the Internet, these labels can be hard to find. Fortunately, some of the bigger names did very well, too.”

Louis Roederer Brut Premier
The No. 2 bottle. “It is a perennial favorite of mine, though this is the first time in a few years that I’m seeing it for under $40. It was ripe and rich, yet showed the balance and elegance I’ve come to expect in Roederer Champagnes.” $35

Henriot Brut Souverain
No. 4 bottle was full, rich and creamy, with surprisingly ripe tropical fruit flavors. Yet it was dry and balanced. $34

Taittinger Brut La Française
No. 7 bottle was from Taittinger, an often underrated producer. It was both fine and elegant, if that’s not redundant, with a mellow mineral and citrus flavor. $35

The Nicolas Feuillatte Brut
No. 9 bottle. It’s by no means a complex Champagne, but it was fresh and lively. $30

Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV – White Foil
The No. 10.” It’s a far cry from a vintage Pol Roger, but a decent bottle nonetheless, with lightness and elegance.”
Notes: A cuvée, with gold straw yellow hue, fine bubbles, a bouquet of floral and fruity aromas. Ripe and thirst-quenching on the palate, with a superb taste of brioche. $36

2006 Cambria “Julia’s Vineyard” Pinot Noir
Wine Enthusiast’s #1 rated wine for 2009. “This is the best Pinot Noir at this price on the market. Easily. It’s picture-perfect cool climate, absolutely dry and silky, with complex flavors of cherries, Mandarin orange, cola, pomegranates, licorice and cinnamon spice, made even richer by smoky oak. Just lovely, and gets even better as it breathes in the glass.” 93 Points. $18

Cambria Wines suggests serving this delightful Pinot with Pancetta and White Asparagus Pizza.
Recipe:

Pancetta and White Asparagus Pizza
INGREDI ENTS
One 6 -7 ounce ball fresh pizza dough
(pre-purchased or homemade)
6 white asparagus stalks, trimmed
6 slices pancetta
½ cup tomato sauce
1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
½ tablespoon dried oregano
extra virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 400˚F. Dust a smooth surface with flour.
Place pizza dough ball in the center. Flatten the dough into
a disc shape with your fingers. Next, roll the dough with a
rolling pin until the dough is thin and reaches a diameter of
10 – 12 inches.

Steam asparagus in a sauté pan with a little water or place
in a vegetable steamer until crisp-tender. When cool, slice
asparagus diagonally.

Cook pancetta over medium low heat until fat is opaque then
drain on paper towels.

Spoon the tomato sauce evenly over dough and sprinkle
generously with the mozzarella cheese. Arrange the pieces
of white asparagus and pancetta. Place the pizza in the oven
and let bake for 5 minutes.

Turn the pizza 180-degrees and continue baking for
another few minutes or until crust is golden brown and the
cheese is bubbly. Remove pizza from oven. Sprinkle with
the driedoregano and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.

From Chef Leonardo Curti of Trattoria Grappolo
Santa Ynez, Santa Barbara County

Dessert Wine
For a little moment of luxury, there’s nothing better after dinner then a little glass of port with dessert or all by itself. You don’t have to spend a small fortune for one of life’s little pleasures.

Two favorites:

Taylor Fladgate 10 Year-old Tawny
From Portugal. An exceptionally fine old tawny blend, aged for 10 years in oak casks. Elegant and smooth, combining delicate wood notes and rich mellow fruit, it is bottled for immediate drinking. A superb dessert wine best served at the end of the meal in the same way as Vintage Port.
Serve with chocolate truffles or Stilton blue cheese & unsalted almonds. At Costco $27

EOS Zinfandel Port 2006
From Paso Robles. Intense aromas of prunes, molasses, roasted walnuts and maple syrup fill the nose. Nutty characters glide across the palate with essence of plums and espresso. Spiciness of dry earth, cedar, and cinnamon linger on the palate for an extended finish. serve with chocolates cake or sip it by itself by the fireplace. Will age nicely for 15 years. Excellent wine for this price point. Costco $20

Finding the Perfect Wine for Beef Stew
From the Dallas Morning News
by Tina Danze

THE MISSION: Find wines that cost less than $20 to pair with Beef Stew in Red Wine With Onions and Mushrooms.

THE FOOD: Beef Bourguignon (the French name for the stew described above), served with a side of garlic mashed potatoes.

THE TASTERS:
•Hunter Hammett, sommelier, Pyramid Restaurant at The Fairmont Dallas.
•George Howald, Serendipity Wine Imports
•James Tidwell, master sommelier and certified wine educator, Cafe on the Green, the Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas
•Barbara Werley, master sommelier; wine director, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
•Cathy Barber, Taste editor
•Tina Danze, freelance writer

The wine panel at the Dallas Morning News debated this month’s pairing entree: Would it be a rustic Beef Stew in Red Wine With Onions and Mushrooms, or the classic Beef Bourguignon that Julia Child translated for the American kitchen?

Actually, the two are the same dish. Julia simplified the technique somewhat for the stew recipe in the ’90s. But each name conveys a slightly different image. If you want an earthy, peasant-style dish for a casual family gathering or pumpkin-carving party, call it beef stew. If you want a traditional French dish for a stylish dinner party, call it Beef Bourguignon.

If you’re going to the trouble of cooking for hours and marrying the flavors overnight, you want a wine that enhances your culinary achievement. Too bold or tannic, and the wine can overwhelm the stew; too light or uncomplicated, and the wine falls flat.

After tasting 14 wines with the stew, here are the top 2:

2004 Lungarotti Rubesco, Italy
Elegant yet earthy, this wine came in a close second for our panel pick. “It’s an approachable wine,” said Hammett. “It’s delicious with a bite of the onion and mushroom, and it rounds out nicely on the finish.” Tidwell liked the wine’s complexity, which meshed well with that of the stew. “It has an earthiness and a fruitiness which complements the dish without overwhelming it,” he said. Both Werley and Howald hailed it as a versatile, solid food wine. $12

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2004 Taurino Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva, Italy
Although not a wine that panelists would uncork for sipping solo, this lesser-known varietal turned out to be the best match for the stew. Barbara Werley said that Southern Italian wines such as this one are made for food like this – comfort-food dishes that have complexity. “This wine becomes bright on the mid-palate. Its earthiness gives way to fabulous fruit,” said Werley. “I wouldn’t serve it as an aperitif, but with the meal, it’s perfect.” James Tidwell identified a “mushroom earthiness” in the wine that he found compatible with the dish. $14

Which wine did we cook with?
2008 Cartlidge & Browne Pinot Noir, California
Often Beef Bourguignon tastes too winey – a result of cooking with overly assertive or tannic wines, or just too much wine.

The goal was to find a fruity, medium-body wine, such as this domestic pinot noir. To keep the wine from dominating the dish, the wine was supplemented with canned beef broth, adding just enough to cover the beef.

A terrific stew can be made with any number of wines. Julia Child recommends a zinfandel, and many recipes call for a burgundy. But bear in mind, the wine matches were tailored to the dish, which was made with a fruity, medium-body California pinot noir. Feel free to experiment.

Here’s the Recipe:

Beef Bourguignon – Beef Stew in Red Wine with Onions and Mushrooms

Beef Bourguignon is a classic French dish of inexpensive beef simmered with vegetables in a wine-based broth.

INGREDIENTS
4       pounds boneless beef chuck cut into 1 ½ – to 2-inch cubes
Vegetable oil for browning the meat
2       cups sliced onions
¾     cup sliced carrots
1        bottle of medium-body, fruity, young red wine (divided use)
4       or 5 large unpeeled garlic cloves, smashed
2 ½  to 3 cups canned beef broth
2 ½  to 3 cups canned drained Italian plum tomatoes
2       bay leaves
1        teaspoon dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
24     small frozen pearl onions, defrosted
3       cups quartered fresh mushrooms (such as cremini)
5       tablespoons softened butter (divided use)
3       tablespoons flour
Dry the meat thoroughly with paper towels – damp meat won’t brown well. Film a frying pan with 1/16 inch of oil and set over moderately high heat. When very hot but not smoking, brown as many pieces of meat as will fit in one layer without crowding. Turn frequently to brown on all sides – 3 to 5 minutes; this is a very important flavor step, so don’t take shortcuts. Transfer the pieces as they are done to a 3-quart, heavy-bottom, flameproof casserole or Dutch oven.

Preheat oven to 325 F.

Skim all but a spoonful of fat out of the frying pan. (If burned, discard all the fat and add fresh oil.) Add the sliced vegetables, stirring and tossing for 3 to 4 minutes to brown lightly before scraping them out over the beef. Pour a cup of the wine into the frying pan, swishing and scraping up any browned bits and coagulated juices. Pour the liquid into the casserole. Add the garlic, the remaining wine, and beef broth to the casserole to cover. Fold in the tomatoes, bay leaf, thyme and salt to taste. You should have enough liquid almost to cover the beef; add more beef broth if needed.

Bring the mixture to a simmer on top of the stove. Cover and transfer to the preheated oven and cook for about 3 hours, turning and basting the meat several times, until just fork-tender. Check the dish after 15 minutes to make sure it is not boiling; reduce oven temperature if it is bubbling too vigorously; it should maintain a simmer.

While the dish simmers, prepare the pearl onions and mushrooms. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a heavy saucepan or skillet over moderately high heat until the foam subsides, then sauté onions, stirring occasionally, until browned in patches. Season with salt and pepper. Add water to come halfway up the sides, then simmer, partially covered, until onions are tender, about 15 minutes. Boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to a glaze, 5 to 10 minutes. Set aside.

Heat the 1 tablespoon butter in a large, nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides. Add mushrooms and sauté, stirring, until brown and any liquid that the mushrooms give off is evaporated, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

When beef is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a colander set over a saucepan to collect all the liquid. Wash out the casserole and return the pieces of beef to it. Press the juices from the solids in the colander into the saucepan. Degrease the cooking liquid and taste very carefully for seasoning. You should have about 3 cups of liquid. Boil it down rapidly if its flavor needs concentrating. Remove from heat.

Using clean hands, blend flour and remaining 3 tablespoons of the butter into a paste with your fingers. Whisk the butter-flour paste into the degreased sauce. When thoroughly incorporated, bring the sauce to a boil to thicken. If not thick enough, repeat the process using ½ tablespoon each of flour and butter.

Add the sauce, prepared onions and sautéed mushrooms to the beef in the casserole and simmer for 2 minutes to blend the flavors. This dish is best if made a day or two ahead of serving, as its flavors meld and develop overnight. Cool, uncovered, before chilling, covered. If making ahead, it’s easier to remove fat from the surface after chilling. If you can’t make it a day or two before serving, at least time the preparation so that it sits at room temperature for 1 hour before serving. The dish may be reheated, covered, in a 350 F oven. For faster reheating, remove stew from the refrigerator an hour before putting in the oven.

Makes 8 servings.

SOURCE: Julia Child, The Way to Cook

The right stew meat

Chuck roast is the best choice of stew meat for this dish because it can hold up to long, slow cooking and has enough marbling to baste itself as it cooks. Don’t be alarmed by the layers of fat within each cube of chuck; the fat melts out, leaving behind flavorful, fork-tender meat. After the dish is cooked, you will have an opportunity to remove the grease; it’s easiest to do this after chilling the dish overnight in the refrigerator.

Leaner cuts of stew meat will not be as tender or flavorful, so resign yourself to degreasing after you cook the dish, rather than avoiding the fat on the front end.

And consider this pearl of wisdom from Julia Child’s The Way to Cook (Alfred A. Knopf, 1989): “Cuts like the rib and rump will fall apart, and something like the eye of round will shred.” That’s not a pretty prospect, so stick with the chuck.

Flavor tip: Cook a day in advance

The secret to the best stew is making it a day (or even two days) ahead. A day in the fridge gives the flavors a chance to meld and develop. Working ahead has other advantages too: You won’t be nervously monitoring your stew in front of your guests, and you can degrease the stew easily when the chilled fat solidifies on the surface.

Rolling Stones’ Forty Licks Merlot
The 2007 Merlot captures the attitude of Mendocino County’s style. Aromas of black cherry, with hints of mint are followed by rich flavors of plum, black cherry, brown sugar, cinnamon, and cedar. This dry red wine is a fine match for herb-roasted chicken, grilled beef or smoky chili.

Rolling Stones – Forty Licks

Making Woodstock Chardonnay
The Woodstock Chardonnay opens with an enjoyable eclectic mixture of rich pear, mineral, and papaya aromas followed by fresh flavors of Asian pear apple, citrus, and tropical fruit with great acid on the finish. Or as Mark likes to say, “sunshine in a bottle”. Enjoy this rich dry white wine with salmon, chicken, creamy soups, and white sauced pasta.

Woodstock 3 Days of Peace and Music

Pink Floyd’s The Dark Side of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon captures the attitude of Mendocino County’s style. Aromas of black currant and cherry are followed by rich flavors of cassis, toasted vanilla bean, and hints of chocolate. Enjoy this rich dry red wine with hearty chicken dishes, beef and lamb, and red sauced pasta.

Pink Floyd – Dark Side of the Moon

Wines Inspired by Music

Winemaker Paul Dolan and the Thornhill family team of financiers from Texas, purchased the Parducci Wine Cellers in 2004. Paul is a fourth generation California winemaker and Former Fetzer Vineyards winemaker and president. The Thornhills own the LaRibera Vineyards in Mendocino.

Together, Dolan and the Thornhills created the Mendocino Wine Co. They’ve kept the Parducci brand and continue to add new labels with a commitment to quality and sustainability on every level. The company has converted the vineyards to biodynamic and organic farming, and even make their labels from recycled paper printed with soy ink.

Mendocino wines have always taken a back seat to those from Napa and Sonoma. Mendocino Wine Co. hopes to change all that with quality products and clever marketing.

Wines That Rock is a partnership between Mendocino Wine Co. and RZO – Co-founders  Ron Roy, Howard Jackowitz and Bill Zysblat. RZO’s business is to help artists get their ‘brand’ in front of people. What could be more fun than promoting wine and rock n’ role?

Wines That Rock, wants to take things to a new level by creating quality wines named after legendary rock albums. The company will place original album art on the wine labels.

Zysblat points out that iconic album covers are among the most recognizable brands anywhere. ”

Tasting the Music

“Traditionally you create the wine and then name it based on its personality. With these wines, we blasted the music in the cellar of the winery and developed a bottle of wine that captured the attitude of the music,” said Ron Roy.

Columbia Crest tops Wine Spectator’s Top 100
By Alex Saliby – Redmond Wine Examiner
The newest list of the top 100 wines  from Wine Spectator magazine is available in the newest issue, but for those of you who are Washington wine fans and don’t subscribe to the magazine,  here’s a sneak peak at the winners from WA state. The number on the left represents the place within the 100 list where the wine finished.

1. Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon CV Reserve 2005 95pts $27
26. Cayuse Syrah Walla Walla Valley Cailloux Vineyard 2006 95pts $65
33. Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006 92pts $25
36. Efeste Syrah Red Mountain Ceidleigh 2006 93pts $29
38. Ch Ste. Michelle Cabernet HHH Canoe Ridge Estate 2006 92pts $28
60. Spring Valley Uriah Walla Walla Valley 2006 93pts $50
66. Barnard Griffin Riesling Columbia Valley 2008 90pts $8
72. The Magnificent Wine Company Syrah Columbia Valley 2006 91pts $20
74. Waterbrook Cabernet Sauvignon CV Reserve 2006 91pts $22

Wow, # 1 on the list this year is a Washington State wine from Columbia Crest!  Well done!

Of course, you had to have been paying attention to your palate in the fall of 2008 when the wine was released, if you were ever to get your hands on a bottle or more of the Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Cab Sauv…it’s been sold out at the winery literally the month after the Wine Spectator awarded the wine a 95 pt score.  (Those of you who might have forgotten, let me remind you, scores of 95 pts or higher are deemed “World Class Premium” products.)

Good luck searching the shops in and around your neighborhood to find some of these gems.