Wine Harvest Begins
While California’s wine harvest is in high gear, the folks on the east coast are batting down the hatches in preparation of the pending hurricane.

From South Coast Today:
Earl Threatens a Rare Year Ripe for Pinot Noir
September 02, 2010
WESTPORT — On a broiling morning under a cloudless sky, Bill Russell of Westport Rivers Vineyard and Winery spoke about producing large quantities of red wine, from his own grapes, for the first time in the farm’s history. But for this to happen, the grapes must survive Nature’s wrath.
“I mean we’re talking two weeks away, maybe three weeks away, from actually accomplishing it,” Russell said. “We’re not popping bottles of Champagne to celebrate, but it’s hard not to sort of be a little bit excited.”

However, Russell has been down this road before.

“The last time we had a year where we expected to maybe make red pinot noir was 1991, and Hurricane Bob ended that,” he said, describing how the storm left the vineyard with broken and rotting grapes. “We had an infestation all of a sudden of insects, including fruit flies and yellow jackets, and they were everywhere.”

That year, Russell was in his mid-20s. At this rate — if Hurricane Earl sours an otherwise splendid season — he’ll be in his 60s before conditions are ripe again for red.

Westport Rivers regularly grows pinot noir grapes but uses them to make the vineyard’s famed sparkling wine, Westport Brut “RJR.” When used for sparkling wine, pinot noir grapes typically have a sugar content of about 19 percent, Russell said, but to make pinot noir, they should be left to ripen to 22-23 percent.

This is generally infeasible given the area’s relatively cool and short growing season, according to Russell.

This “is why we’re a wonderful place to do bubbly,” he said. “It’s very similar to what happens in Champagne in France.”

But this season kicked off about two weeks early, giving the grapes more time to ripen before the pinot noir season winds down in coming weeks.

Kip Kumler, chairman of the Massachusetts Farm-Winery & Growers Association, reports great grape weather this year.
“I think this is going to be the season of the century,” said Kumler of Turtle Creek Winery in Lincoln. “We’ve gotten all the heat … that we need and it’s been dry,” which helps ward against fungus.

But just as Mother Nature giveth, she can taketh away.

“These berries are out here hanging,” Russell said. “If you hit this with 50-mile-an-hour winds, let alone hurricane-force winds … all this stuff’s going to move for at least 6, 10 hours.”

This poses two potential problems. The wind could cause the grapes to drop, Russell said, but more likely, the wind could batter the grapes, cause them to burst and attract bugs that “bring with them all kinds of outside yeast and bacteria … can form vinegar rot, and you can watch your vineyard basically melt in front of your eyes.”

Kumler is more worried about rain, which can also split the grapes, as evident in a shriveled cluster of fruit at Westport Rivers Wednesday.
Scott J. Soares, commissioner of the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources, said Wednesday that he is concerned about farms throughout the state.

“We’re worried all the way from the coast where shellfish growers could experience damage to their gear and loss of their products,” he said, “all the way across the Commonwealth to the orchard operations as well as the vineyard operations.”

Like other crops, apples have made an early appearance this summer in Massachusetts, according to Soares.

“Great crop out there,” he said, “but we’re certainly concerned about any kind of high wind that could impact that fruit, and because they are becoming ripe, to have those apples come off the trees sooner rather than later.”

Meanwhile, the wreckage at Westport Rivers wouldn’t necessarily be limited to pinot noir.

“Losing a one-in-20 year with pinot noir is sort of a heartbreak,” Russell said.

“But really, the bigger story is the entire crop is out here. … It’s not like boats. We can’t pull them out of the water.”

Still, pinot noir is particularly vulnerable as a thin-skinned grape that grows in tight clusters, where rot spreads easily, according to Russell, who said the skin continues to thin as the grapes ripen.

Kumler echoed him.

“Pinot noir is the most difficult grape to grow and it’s the most difficult grape to make wine out of,” he said, “but when you get it right, it’s a religious experience.”

So what happens now?

Russell planned to pick grapes that were ready before the storm, but the pinot noir crop wouldn’t even be ripe enough yet for sparkling wine. Other than that, he said, all that’s left to do is watch and pray.

Photo from Life Magazine September 20, 2005. Key West resident Joshua Kendall sits on Duval Street with a glass of wine in hand as Hurricane Rita passes by the low-lying island chain.

Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Castello di Nipozzano Riserva 2006
What could be more Italian than Chianti and a Ferrari? It’s like dying and going to heaven. And, now that harvest is in full swing, it’s time to bring out the full-bodied red wines we’ve been waiting all summer long to open.

This wine has been barrel-aged for 24 months. Ruby red in color with garnet on the edge. Complex aromas of dark fruit such as plum and black cherry, with hints of vanilla, cinnamon and clove. A rich, complex palate of plum and dark cherry with hints of licorice, spice and cocoa. Full-bodied and structured – a good balance of tannins and alcohol, with a long lingering finish. 91 points from Wine Spectator, October, 2009.

Because Sangiovese is very thin skinned, the juice produces a rich, alcoholic and long-standing wine. Will cellar for at least 5 years. Pairs well with barbecued meat, beef stews, and aged cheeses. $19 at K & L

The Summer That Wasn’t
Here on the west coast of  California we’ve had a cool summer. It happens every so often. I remember the summer of ‘73 was cooler, yet. Anyway, we’ve been wondering how this will effect this year’s harvest.

Growers will try to keep their fruit on the vine as long as possible to allow for maximum ripening which results in optimal sugar. Areas like Napa, that are known for fruity, high alcohol wines are already planning to pick grapes at lower brix.

The cabernets from Napa this year will probably be more old world style – more earthy and lower alcohol content. Not a bad thing at all. California will prove it can produce more sophisticated wines with higher acid and more varietal flavors from the smaller fruit.

Usually when we have a cool summer we have a wet winter. Only time will tell. In the meantime, we are looking forward to the 2009 releases, which are said to be exceptional.

“It was a one in 10-year kind of harvest,” said Joe Norman, assistant winemaker at Heitz Wine Cellars in Napa Valley.

“If winegrowers were judicious in their farming practices, it was an ultra premium year for Lodi.” Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery in Paso Robles.

In the meantime, we’re still working on finding good, affordable 2007 cabernets to add to our little collection.

2007 Chappellet “Signature” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Pushing the limit on what we call “affordable,” this wine is a great value. The kind of wine that gets better as it sits in the glass.

A blend of Cabernet, Malbec, Petiti Verdo, Merlot and Cab Franc. Aromas of chocolate, dark cherry and vanilla, with hints of smoke and spice. Flavors of dark cherry, plum and dark berries, with hints of chocolate and coffee. Decanting or using an aerator is recommended to smooth out the tannins. Long, smooth finish. Will cellar for 10+ years. $39 at K&L

2008 Kendall-Jackson Monterey County Riesling Vintner’s Reserve
California State Fair Double Gold winner – Best of California Riesling! 98 Points. One of the few winners that is still available to buy.

Tasting Notes:
Aromas of honeydew and peach with hints of citrus and apple. Flavors of apricot, pear and orange blossoms with hints of pineapple. Full bodied and balanced with an off-dry, crisp finish.

Great to sip or serve with chicken in a white wine sauce with noodles and mushrooms. Found it at BevMo for $10.

Jack Nicklaus Wines
Jack Nicklaus will partner with Terlato Wines to introduce a new line of handcrafted, limited-production wines from California’s famed Napa Valley.

Terlato owns Chimney Rock and Rutherford Hill wineries.

The first bottles of the inaugural vintage — the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2007 Private Reserve were released in June.

2007  Limited Production Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
The Cabernet Sauvignon is a brilliant garnet color in the glass with aromas of blackberry, red plum and notes of cedar. It’s full bodied and rich with intense, layered mocha and red current flavors with undertones of sweet spice. The concentrated mid-palate glides into a long and lingering finish. $35

2007 Limited Production Private Reserve
The Private Reserve incorporates Bordeaux grapes and Syrah, with the intense and structured Cabernet offering deep black cherry fruit with accents of vanilla and smoky paprika. The concentrated layers of dark fruit — black cherries and black raspberry — are wrapped with velvety tannins and a subtle earthiness. $43

Both wines are available through www.uncorked.com and at premier golf clubs and resorts throughout the United States.

German Riesling
Now that the weather has finally warmed up, we’ve put the cabernets and zins on the back shelf and moved the lighter whites to the front. We tend to drink more of the lighter wines because their alcohol content is quite a bit lower than the reds. Rieslings average 10.5% alcohol while some California cabs are 18+%.

Clean Slate 2008 Riesling
A good German Riesling under $20? Yep. This wine is pretty much like it’s name. Clean with a slate-like minerality. Because the vineyards in the Mosel region are perched on steep hillsides, harvesting is labor intensive – the main reason prices are a little higher than, let’s say, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

The soil of the Mosel is harsh, stony slate – which gives the grapes that great green apple flavor. The rich nutrients in the soil give it a clean taste.

Pale gold color. Aromas of green apple and pear with hints of petrol and spice. Flavors of peach, green apple with a hint of citrus and spice. Crisp and balanced, slightly sweet. Fruit finish with a mineral feel on the palette. Great with anything wrapped in proscuitto.

Gold Medal winner at 2007 San Francisco International Wine Competition. We found it at BevMo for $11

White Wines That Are Better with Age
Usually when we think of wines that age well we most often think of cabernet sauvignon, Barolo, Brunello di Montelcino and fortified wines like Port and Madeira. But, there are white wines that are better with age.

Red or white, there are certain conditions that allow some wines to age well. Location, vintage – ideal weather conditions, fermentation process and even certain yeast used in fermentation.

Red wines get their tannins from contact with the skin and stems. High tannins allow for greater aging capacity. White wine, which normally don’t have tannins because they rarely have contact with the skin, need to be higher in sugar and acid to age well.

So which whites age the best?

German Rieslings, because they are high in sugar and acid, will age as well as a cabernet.

Burgundy-style Chardonnays because they have good acidity and minerality, Most California Chardonnays are low in acid. The lack of acid makes the wine rich and buttery but it won’t age well.

Sauternes and late harvest wines can take years to come to full maturity because of the high sugar levels and botrytised fruit.

Chablis age well because of the acidity.

A couple of examples of well-aged whites that we’ve tried:

Michaud Vineyard Chelone Appellation Chardonnay 2002
Michael Michaud’s vineyard in Monterey is considered a California Grand Cru vineyard. Former winemaker at Chalone, Michaud started his own winery in 1998.

Gold straw color.Aromas of peach and apple with a hint of vanilla and butterscotch. Flavors of pear and lemoncella with nice minerallity. Balanced and well structured with a long smooth finish. As it sits in the glass, aromas and flavors continue to surprise and delight. Drink now. At Wine Exchange $20

ZD 2006 Reserve Chardonnay Napa Valley
This is the one with the black label. Gold color. Aromas of pineapple, pear and orange blossom with a hint of white flowers. Flavors of lemon, pear with a hint of vanilla and oak. Full bodied, balanced with a long, rich finish. I love this wine. Will cellar well for 8 to 10 years. The extended barrel aging -15 months contributes to the longevity of this wine. Multiple gold and double gold medal winner. 90 points from Wine Spectator. $45 dollars at K&L.

State Fair Medal Winners
The California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition is the oldest and most prestigious wine competition in North America. Each year, thousands of California wines are entered into the competition for the chance to win one of many coveted awards from the State Fair’s panel of expert wine judges.

After the competition, you can go online and they will have posted all the gold, double gold, silver and bronze medal winners in each category. We like to check out the winners and try as many as possible. If you wait too long to try certain wines, you’ll find they are sold out. These awards are a big deal and are watched by wine lovers around the world – so you have to move quickly.

At the State Fair Wine Garden you have an opportunity to taste the award winning wines from the competition as well as the wine of the day. Cheeses, fruit and bread are available to complete your wine tasting.

Each year, in addition to the wine competition, the California State Fair Commercial Wine Program recognizes a California vineyard which has consistently – over several growing seasons – produced grapes that have contributed directly to wine of superior quality and marketability within commercial sales systems and among fine wine judging. This year’s “California Vineyard of the Year” award winner is Bien Nacido Vineyards® of Santa Maria. Bien Nacido grows some of the finest grapes in the state.

Although Bien Nacido doesn’t produce its own wine, it is the source of fruit for many top California wineries.

2008 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Chardonnay
Light straw color. Aromas of pear, baked pineapple, cinnamon and apple, with a touch of graham cracker and vanilla. Flavors are clean and bright with hints of citrus, lemon creme and apple combined with spice and subtle oak. Well balanced with good acidity and a nice creamy, mineral finish. Wine Enthusiast gave it 96 Points! $34

Trestle Creek Riesling
The AstraPouch From Glenora Wine Cellars, New York Finger Lakes region.

From the Glenora website:
The 1st U.S. wine available in this lightweight, environmentally-friendly, unbreakable package

The AstraPouch is a sleek, durable, and efficient pouch that is the new alternative to the heavier glass bottle and bulky bag-in-box standards.  Used to package wine and other non-carbonated beverages, the AstraPouch can chill the product quickly, won’t let air in while pouring and has a low carbon footprint. The AstraPouch features a convenient handle and allows wine to be free from the “no glass” rule.

Glenora’s Trestle Creek Riesling has fresh apricot and peach aromas. This luscious, semi dry wine is balanced with crisp, natural acidity, characteristic of New York’s Finger Lakes region. It is ideally suited with Chicken, Fish, Vegetarian, Asian, or as an Apéritif.

1.5L AstraPouch is equivalent to 2 bottles of wine.  There are approximately 10 glasses per pouch. $17.99

Louis Latour 2007 Pouilly-Fuissé
This French chardonnay is a favorite. One of the white wines that can be aged – 2 to 5 years. Unlike American chardonnays, this Burgundy region of France produces a mineral flavored wine that leans toward ‘crisp’ rather than ‘buttery’. Perfect for summer.

Light straw color. Aromas of apple, honey and a hint of citrus. Flavors of pear and apple with hints of lemon and stony minerals. Balanced with a crisp, clean finish. Serve this wine with artichoke and curry dipping sauce. Yum. Widely available. $15

Artichoke with Curry Dip
Cook artichoke:
Cut about 3/4 inch to an inch off the tip of the artichoke.

Cut excess stem, leaving about a half inch on the artichoke. The stems are bitter and stringy.

Using kitchen scissors, cut off the tips of all of the leaves.

Rinse the artichokes in cold water.

Place artichokes in large pot and add water to 3/4 full. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cove and simmer for 30 to 60 mins. If one of outer the leaves can be easily pulled off, it’s done.

Quick Curry Dip
1/4 C mayonnaise
Tbsp. lemon juice
Curry powder to taste (start with 1/2 tsp. and add a little more until you like the taste)